Archive for the ‘filter’ Tag

XS650: Oil Filters   1 comment

Had my hands in a couple of motors last week. An early XS1 that, judging from the bearing seats, has had as hard a life as Keith Richards face. An XS-D that looks pretty clean inside. Both had what look like original filters.


Top: XS-D .. Bottom: XS1 – both showed damage from over-tightening the screws.

Neither gasket had been pre-treated before installation. An SF hammer was required. The gaskets did separate. In half.


Early filter left with full metal jacket. Right: pleated mesh with magnet, right-hand end slightly crushed. Mesh on both sides intact.


Rear: Early filter has no magnets. Mesh is only spot-welded. Later filter has magnets both sides. Mesh is fully cemented. Much more surface area. Mesh is finer.

Early oil flow problems? Filtration issues? Strange the prone corner was never properly reinforced.


Left ends intact.


Fronts. XS1 filter, mesh has started to separate at the spot-welds.

Although I’ve seen much worse both these motors could have benefited from a few more oil changes.

Was pleasantly surprised to see the original XS1 filter here. And that it had survived so much punishment for so long before giving out.

Both engines have obviously been warmed up slowly-the ends are still intact. The mesh separation on the early filter probably derives from crankshaft rotation – from the look of the bearing seats this motor has sung – full throat – louder than Sleazy Joe.
(143.2dB in Hassleholm, Sweden, 2008)

The XS-D filter could make a good emergency reserve. After fitting an end protector. And rechecking each oil change.

Take care of your engines and they will take care of you. These are very much ladies.


Posted February 1, 2016 by xscafe in Motor - Oil, Uncategorized

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XS650: Oil Filter – Starter position   Leave a comment

Have seen these around. For many years. Mostly on competition machines. Use with 306 and later cases. Reportedly 20% cooling effect. Got one in my hands the other day.

Removed your starter ?

… no need to waste that space …


… fill it …


… with something like this …


… bolts in …


…  filters with a big suck …


… through here …


Posted March 7, 2012 by xscafe in Motor - Oil

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XS650: Oil Filter   Leave a comment

All the high km Xses I’ve seen have had a history of regular oil and filter changes. Remove the foreign matter and you reduce the wear and tear.

I like to imagine my bean-counter freaking. Red-faced. Apoplectic. How dare these machines live. They’re supposed to be dead. Killed off to promote the XS750-850 triples. And they’re supposed to be dead too. How dare people care. They should be junking these old pieces of shit and buying new. New. NEW. New pieces of shit. New planned obsolescence. Where’s the profit? Where’s my bonus?




Maybe this is why Yamaha never bothered to really improve the original sump sieve. Always damaged. Ruptured by strong flows. You can carefully repair it. Solder it up. Some have used JBWeld-not my cup-of-tea. Make a shield to protect the exposed corner. It still wont improve filtration. The mesh is simply too coarse.


shielded…i soldered this up to make it stronger


new filter…open all along the top left hand edge…WTF?


as the magnet was crooked…have heard these fall out too


I bought a new filter some years ago. From the supplier I can’t bring myself to name. You all know him. CCC. Cheap Chinese Crap Inc. Here’s a pic. I’ve bought 2 of these. Both looked like this. When returned, I was the criminal. Great customer relations. At €32 each, with a miscut gasket too, I walked.


BMW paper filters…still inside the motor though…nice sump extension


paper filters


I got hold of one of these. Uses BMW paper filters. Works fine. Still need to open the sump to exchange. Shielded. Came with a sump extension. A little more oil.


external sump filter..spin-on auto cartridge


with bypass in the unlikely event you don’t do your maitenance


Then I found this. External. Spin on auto filter from a Renault. Takes a standard fitting. Paper filter. Includes a bypass for the unlikely event the filter blocks. Centrestand hangers sit lower. Not for low-slung hardtails and bobbers. Kalle in Germany makes these. Send him a sump plate this comes in return.


BMW-KTM620 paper filters…bypass fitted inside the rh end


shielded and fixed both ends against vibration…is still inside the engine though


Hein from Holland produces these. Paper. Bypass. Requires removal of sump plate to exchange.

Both create a suction drop of around 0.1 bar or 1.5 psi. Normal operation is around 1.0 bar or 14 psi delivering ca 7.5 ltr per min @ 5000rpm.

Then there is this interesting modification. Removing your e-start? Great idea! Save weight. And make room for this…


best e-start i’ve ever seen


mounted on front mount


front mount incl filter, from twins inn


fitted in front…check the cooler, normally it looks mounted upside down-like this it will drain when sitting-unless the cooler is temp controlled, only opening over a certain operating temp


Auto spin-ons are also fitted as remote filters. Mostly integrated to the front engine mount. Pick-up and return points are in the rh casing at the side filter. You need to ensure the original return is blocked or not all the oil will filter.


650Central spin on side filter


Mike Morse at 650Central sells these too which fit into the original side filter cavity. Same applies with the original return. Make sure it’s blocked off.

Picked up one of these side filter covers. Replaces your original. Works with the original side filter. Dont know if I will ever use it as I like the Heiden side filter conversion. Still, it makes a nice paper-weight.


original side-filter cover replacement


compared to Heidens kit


heidens honda paper filter and cooler


I do like these. Uses a honda paper filter. Designed to act as a small cooler too. Looks cool.



There are those that argue ‘Regular oil changes are all that’s needed’. ‘Paper filters reduce too much flow’. ‘Bypass valves should all be removed’.

Each to their own. It’s your bike. Your pocket. I change my oil every 1500km. Run a sump paper filter and a side filter-cooler. 750cc. More cubes means also more heat and stress.

These girls run hot already. Look after your oil.

Posted January 16, 2011 by xscafe in Motor - Oil

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XS650: Oil Circuit   2 comments

I was sitting with the CEO of my local bank the other day. In his office. Watching the falling snow cover my bike. Drinking his coffee. Wondering why I hadn’t put the Trials grip tyres on. Discussing Special Interest Groups. And Corporate and Personal Strategy. Touching upon social responsibilty. Normally a topic dear to my heart. We have thrashed it previously. Several times.

My mind started to wander. I began to visualise. In corporate Manga style. A late ‘60’s Yamaha Emergency Board Meeting. Deep in the wee hours. They had acquired and developed, alone or occasionally in partnership, the technology and knowledge to create and put into production the XS1. Their first real foray into 4 stroke motorcycles. They knew they had a solid motor. The animated Board was trying to decide whether the engine was too strong. Too reliable. Too solid. After all, if it didn’t break down, how would they recover their research, development and acquisition costs? How would their fledgling dealer network cover it’s running costs?

What could they do?

A pimply recent graduate bean counter, no passion for bikes, and a little mechanical understanding-isn’t it interesting how although a lot of knowledge is bad, a little is downright dangerous-pipes up. Squeaky. Insecure.

‘If oil is blood, you could deoptimise the circulation of it and induce mechanical wear’.

Planned obsolescence. The cascading effect?

The more units you sell the more work you create. Not only do you have a captive service market you monopolise parts. Henry rolls over and grumbles into his cobweb

‘Those Japanese couldn’t invent anything if they tried.’

And so the infamous XS650 Oil Sieve was created.


unprotected, strong flows esp when cold rupture this pdq


Simple really.

  • Expose the weakest point, and
  • Use mesh too coarse to remove the metal pieces shed by the gears.


repaired and protected by a copper cover…will be soldered together too


The Sieve sits at the lowest point giving a rough treatment to the ‘suction’ side-about 0.9 Bar or 13.5 PSI-of the pump. Any foreign material breaching it goes directly to the pump. Na great.


with corresponding wear


and breakage


and subsequent loading of the filter…broken primary springs found in the sump


the bypass valve, doubles as the filter bolt…a safety feature only…activates with about 14 psi pressure difference across the filter…at 21mm you may be tempted to tighten this down. Don’t.


Original engines had a bypass valve in the ‘push-side’ filter and a Pressure Release Valve in the pump itself.

XS1 schema with prv….A-Crank Main Brg..B-Big Ends…C-Transmission Shaft..D-Clutch Main Brg..E-Shift Fork Shaft…F-Rocker Arms


oil circuit…shows direct and splash contact


early pump with prv…was it a good idea to remove it?


This is the text from the original manual for the early XS with PRV on the oil pump:

  • ‘the oil pump is fitted with a bypass valve-check ball and spring-that permits the oil from the pump to be redirected back to the oil reservoir in case of excessive pressure in the delivery passages…the cover has a drilled hole that leads to a pressure relief check ball. If too much pressure develops the check ball releases oil back into the crankcase’


  • ‘the filter is fitted with a bypass. If the filter is plugged, oil is forced through a spring-loaded ball type check valve in the locking bolt and into the engine delivery passage. In this manner, oil delivery to the engine will not be stopped by a clogged filter.’

The beancounter spat the dummy. The pump PRV was quickly axed, reducing costs and unfiltered pumped oil bypasses the filter if blocked. If the owner isn’t prepared to maintain his bike dirty oil is better than none at all. A concession in favour of goodwill.


oil circuit


more oil


passes the sieve and through this hole


  and out here at the base from the hole under the crank into the side cover below…then back into the upper casing-1 o’clock


into the right engine cover to the pump then the filter and back out the top there to


  this transverse gallery in the upper case, and out the top where the reducer goes


reducer…14×1.5…use 2x22mm spanners when working this or you will break the pipe


   you will need one of these…16 x 1.5mm, Öl024 from Twinsinn…stainless steel…if you over-tighten


leads from the reducer to the head and rocker gear


  transverse gallery feeds crank mains and has a jet each side to spray oil onto the big ends…also see the holes to feed the transmission, shift fork and drive shafts


256 306 and447 conrods were slotted


533 big ends were not slotted and have scooped pins


and through this passage over the crank to the transmission shaft and shift mechanism


and into the transmission shaft where it feeds the gears, the selectors and then the drive shaft


oil fed from notch seen to the right…selectors also mist fed


These old girls run hot. Vibrators will do that for you. Do yourselves a big favour. Think lubrication. Lots of it. Regularly applied. Every 1500km is good.


lubrication is GOOD


Motorcycle oils. Keep those modifiers to a minimum. Yamaha recommend SAE 20-40.


temp-oil specs


tech bulletin…oil dipstick


Note: when running a tacho remember it is driven directly off the oil pump…if your tacho stops working, check out why immediately, your oil pump may also not be working


Posted January 14, 2011 by xscafe in Motor - Oil

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