Archive for the ‘Elec – Wiring’ Category

XS650: Ants’ PMA   Leave a comment

Sourced and installed the parts from an RD350LC PMA into my blue rat some years ago . Used. Old. And still good. Very happy with it.

A year or so ago I picked up a nice low mileage 77 D. Ridden a few miles every year. Complete paper record. Had some charging issues.

About this time Ants from the British XS650 forum began providing new PMA units for a good price. 200W. Complete with rec/reg, a rotor cone key that fit the original XS650 crankshaft and timing marks. (if trying the link dont be put off if you get a blank page – simply reset and it will appear – dont know why it does this but it happens to me all the time)

 

1 .. Ants’ PMA kit

 

Was pretty busy for a while and it sat. Eventually got a chance to blow the dust off and begin.

 

2 ..  Checking that the stator screws were loctited in – Yes.

Checking that the stator screws were loctited in – Yes.

 

3 ..  Sometimes this locating pin just wont come out. Easier to quickly modify the backing plate

Sometimes this locating pin just wont come out. Easier to quickly modify the backing plate

 

5 .. The pin sits at 6 o’clock so a simple line perpendicular to the horizontal gives the position

The pin sits at 6 o’clock so a simple line perpendicular to the horizontal gives the position

 

6 .. Backing plate didn’t sit properly over the crankshaft seal boss so got busy with a file. Would have been quicker to head off to the workshop and chuck it in the lathe. Naya.

Backing plate didn’t sit properly over the crankshaft seal boss so got busy with a file. Would have been quicker to head off to the workshop and chuck it in the lathe. Naya.

 

7 .. Took a little while.

Took a little while.

 

8 .. Sits perfect now.

Sits perfect now.

 

Cut-out and reshaping will be now be done during production.

 

9 ..  Phase wires held in place with a clip. Used another on the plate screw to the right just to keep clear from the chain and secured cable with a frame tie just below the rear

Phase wires held in place with a clip. Used another on the plate screw to the right just to keep clear from the chain and secured cable with a frame tie just below the rear engine mount.

 

Also removed the blue neutral indicator wire from the old loom, resheathed it in 4mm isolating sheath and reconnected to the original position. (Plug connector upper left in next pic)

 

10 .. Remove the battery to release the rectifier.

This is the original regulator. Remove it.

 

 The rectifier too. Sits under the battery box.

 

11 .. Remove the battery to release the rectifier.

Remove the battery to release the rectifier.

 

12 .. Made a plate to mount the new 5 wire rec/reg in the original reg position so the fins didn’t block the airbox inlet. Would have welded tabs directly to the battery box but had run out of wire for the MIG. The 3 screws with nuts create an air space under the rec/reg for cooling and better air flow to the filter-box. Packed with rubber bushes they dont rub against the underside of the rec/reg.

Made a plate to mount the new 5 wire rec/reg in the original reg position so the fins didn’t block the airbox inlet. Would have welded tabs directly to the battery box but had run out of wire for the MIG. The 3 screws with nuts create an air space under the rec/reg for cooling and better air flow to the filter-box. Packed with rubber bushes they dont rub against the underside of the rec/reg.

 

13 .. Fits snug between the tool box and filter-box. Cables separated, resheathed and fitted with original connectors

Fits snug between the tool box and filter-box. Cables separated, resheathed and fitted with original connectors

 

14 .. Release the original connector blocks by inserting a small flat bladed screwdriver into the recess beside the pins. Simply push out.

Release the original connector blocks by inserting a small flat bladed screwdriver into the recess beside the pins. Simply push out.

 

15 .. Make sure the tangs are reset before reusing.

Make sure the tangs are reset before reusing.

 

16 .. Added a 20 Amp flat bladed fuse holder in the positive battery feed. Just for security. This wire is too long and will be reworked.

Added a 20 Amp flat bladed fuse holder in the positive battery feed. Just for security. This wire is too long and will be reworked.

 

The rec/reg, when mounted on the plate, interferes with the sidecover. Modified an old sidecover. Rattlecan-blacked it and it’s mate. Be a shame to mess up a good set of covers

Just got to put some kms on her now to road test before installing a 750 kit that’s been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years.

Had some charging issues in the beginning. Went through and checked the new wiring. Not quite sure what was wrong but the issues disappeared.

More than happy with this.

Update … almost killed my second rear tyre now – no problems – running sweet

Ant’s: This is a good product – once I installed it, 2.5 years ago, I have had no problems .. !!KOOL!!

XS650: AMP Superseal   Leave a comment

 

After parking the sidecar in town the other day I came back to find the sidecar front blinker and riding lights both broken. Decided to replace all sidecar lights with LEDs.

 

 

LED Marker Lights

LED Marker Lights … yellow blinker … white riding light … 3 LEDs each … both for the front … 0.004A/0.5W … non-polarised (can be wired either way)

 

 

 

rear light … 5 LEDs each function … tail/brake/blinker/number plate … 1W

 

 

As the wiring is rather exposed I thought I would try the waterproof AMP Superseal connectors. These come as 1 to 6 pole. Didn’t come with montage instructions. I found these pretty fiddly to put together. So went looking for instructions. amp superseal 1 and amp superseal.

Made the job a lot easier. However for the cost and effort I am not sure whether I would do it again. Simply from an installation and cost perspective I am disappointed. Time will tell how effective they are. If I hadn’t already the proper crimping pliers I wouldn’t have bothered – they are absolutely necessary. I used 1×3 pole, 2x2pole and 2×4 pole connectors. Together they almost cost more than the lights.

 

 

AMP Type A

AMP Type A … cable 0.5-0.75mm² … OD 1.2-1.6mm

 

 

AMP Type B

AMP Type B … cable 0.75-1.5mm² … OD 1.7-2.4mm

 

 

AMP Type C

AMP Type C … cabel 0.75-1.5mm² … OD 2.5-3.3mm … these red plugs come also as blind plugs (no hole through the middle)

 

Posted January 21, 2013 by xscafe in Elec - Wiring

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